For the first time I got my board on my head!! So I’ve never really tried it before and I was surpriced how long it took from falling, standing up, and then BAM it came flying from above! Whoa it hit so hard. I screamed so loud! I got dizzy and ringing ears and I had to stop.
And that was really the worst thing about it, cause I had the feeling we finnally figured how the waves worked… Such a shame.
So today is the first day of my winter Staycation. And the surf has been epic today. Sun was up, so we both got in the car and drove to a new spot in Hanstholm. It was sooo wild! The chalk reef was soo huge and it looked so different from anywhere else on the west coast. I can’t believe we have this kind of nature just around the corner. It almost resembled Greece. Lond heavy peelers. Amazing. But cold! Oh so arctic! I froze the entire time -need new boots! And even though I had double neopren on, my feet, legs and arms… Brrr!!!
T
Tongue bite
Double neopren
